一、真正的羊绒衫会起球吗?
纯羊绒衫会严重起球。 羊绒衫起球,原因非常多,但是从专业角度来归纳,主要原因不外乎(女装)男装羊绒衫的纱线,(女装)男装羊绒衫织物的组成结构,羊绒衫原料的染烫工艺以及穿着因素等四个方面。下面我们一条一条来说。 首先,纱线的影响——如果纤维的卷曲度和波形越多,进行加捻工艺时,纤维不容易舒展开来,从而导致平常穿着时发生摩擦后纤维松动滑移,在纱线表面形成毛茸茸的一团。总结来说,就是纤维卷曲度越高,越容易起球,如果暴露在纱线表面的纤维头子越多,虽提高了纤维的柔软性,增加了纤维的数量,但是也说明,细纤维比粗纤维更容易打结起球。同理可得,较短的纤维比较长的纤维更容易起毛起球,除了是因为纤维头子的数量较多的原因外,长纤维之间的摩擦力及抱合力相对较大,纤维不容易滑到衣服的表面,也就难以纠缠起球。 另外,不同的纱线,捻度和表面光洁程度,也会对羊绒衫起球有影响。比如,捻度较高的纱线,纤维间的结合相对更加紧密,纱线在受到摩擦时,不容易滑移,起球自然就少了;但是,这样也会有另外一个问题,就是羊绒衫是属于柔性织物,捻度高了会使织物发硬,因此不能靠提高捻度来防止起球。纱线光洁度的影响,纱线越光洁,表面毛茸则短而少,所以光洁纱线不易起球。 其次,和织物的组织结构也有关系,羊绒衫组织结构如果疏松则相对更容易起球,结构紧密的羊绒衫在与外界产生摩擦时,不易产生毛球,已经存在的毛球,也会因为纤维之间的摩擦阻力比较大,而不容易滑到羊绒衫的表面来。另外,表面凹凸不平的花样会使羊绒衫容易起毛球。所以,一件花织羊绒衫肯定比一件平针羊绒衫容易起球。 染烫工艺对起球也有影响,不同的染料,柔软剂,染整工艺,对羊绒衫的抗起球性都有影响,以散毛染色或毛条染色的纱线比绞纱染色的纱线更不容易起球,纱线染色所织的织物比以成衫染色的织物更不容易起球,另外,有的羊绒衫为了抗起球,会采用树脂处理,这会大大增强羊绒衫的抗起球性。 最后,当然是穿着环境的影响了,羊绒衫在穿着时,摩擦越多,摩擦越厉害,就越容易起球。 总结一下,首先,这里有个误区,并不是越贵的羊绒衫就不起球,那我们应该怎么保养羊绒衫呢?因为羊绒衫是由羊绒纤维组成的,由于纤维的特性,经常摩擦的地方起球是很正常的,特别是新穿的羊绒衫更容易起球,因为新羊绒衫表面裸露的绒丝有长有短,摩擦以后就成小球了,出现这样的情况,你要做的就是拿剪刀把球减掉,这样的球会越来越少的。另外,穿着时,尽量搭配一些顺滑的衣服,也不要在外衣的内袋中放一些硬物。穿着时间以10天为宜。清洗时要在30度以下的温水中浸泡为宜。清洗后托干的时候最好包裹一块白布,以免羊绒衫变形。晾晒时要选择阴凉通风的地方,切不可暴晒。另外,羊绒衫的防蛀也很重要,毕竟羊绒衫还是很珍贵的东西。
二、羊绒衫会起球吗?起球以后怎么处理呢?
羊绒衫会出现起球的情况,对于衣物起球,通常可以用专用的除球器去除,冬天大衣的起球,也可以用这种方式处理。
不过,平时尽量减少摩擦,防止衣物起球。尤其是衣物清洗的时候,更是要注意。
最好用专用洗衣剂清洗,如蓝月亮的丝毛净,专业护理毛料等织物,柔软护色,洗后不易缩水变形。
如果可以的话,尽量选择手洗清洗,轻揉捏洗就好。
如果选择洗衣机清洗,最好用“轻柔”档或洗涤毛料的程序清洗。
三、薄羊绒衫起球吗?
会起球,羊绒衫(俗称“毛衣”)起毛起球的根本原因是羊毛纤维的鳞片结构(类似鱼鳞)。频繁摩擦时,鳞片会相互缠绕。时间长了会出现起毛,很多突出的毛发会形成圆球。这就是为什么你的毛衣在胸部和腋下起球最严重的原因(因为这些部位摩擦最大)。
其实羊毛衫、羊绒衫都会起毛起球,但有些品牌的羊毛或羊绒经过了抗起毛起球处理(即对鳞片进行适当处理),因此起毛起球的现象有所减少。
四、羊绒衫易起球吗?
会
羊绒衫会起球。羊绒衫注意保养,可以减少起球的情况,首先注意穿着时毛衣内外服装宜光滑。还要注意,勤拆洗,一般2-3年重新编结一次,洗涤时用中性洗涤剂或皂粉,水温50℃以下,不要搓拧,平摊晾干。有特殊抗起球需求,则建议购买混纺和粗长羊毛纺制的纯毛绒线。羊绒衫的起球很多时候是可以避免的,比如羊绒衫的穿搭方面,尽量避免与硬性织物的摩擦,选择搭配光滑的衣物,比如搭配羽绒服。而对于已经起球的羊绒衫,只要处理得当,也能还原衣物开始的质感和色泽。如遇到起球情况,应该用手轻轻将毛球摘除,切记不可生拉硬扯。或者在将羊绒衫清洗干净后,用剪刀将毛球剪下。在经过几次洗涤之后,随着一些松散的纤维脱落,衣物的起球现象是会逐渐消失的。
五、好毛衣会起球吗?
好的毛衣一般都会起球,特别是纯羊毛的毛衣,但可以用去毛球器把毛球除理掉。
六、会起球的呢子好还是不会起球的好?
肯定是不会起球的好。就算是全羊毛呢大衣也是会有点点起球的。
因为只要是含有毛的衣服,都很容易起球。如果平时穿衣服的过程中,衣服的摩擦很严重,衣服也会容易起球。如果想要呢子大衣起球不那么严重,日常要多注意预防。
在穿羊毛呢子大衣的时候,尽量避免和墙壁、座椅、包包进行磨蹭,长时间的磨蹭都很容易导致衣服起球。除了外面要注意磨蹭,内搭也要注意。比如穿大衣的时候,里面最好避免穿一些材质很硬的毛衣,柔软的毛衣可以减少和大衣之间的摩擦力
七、21含量的羊绒衫起球吗?
21含量的羊绒衫一般都会起球的。羊绒衫无论是贵的还是便宜的,是含绒量高或低起球是正常的现象,这是由羊绒衫的面料质地决定的,完全不起球羊绒衫肯定不是纯羊绒。羊绒衫是以山羊绒为原料针织而成,它在毛衫类别中属于最为贵重的面料,无论是在保暖性还是舒适度上都是最好的品质,唯一的缺点就是强度差,容易起球、静电等。
八、羊绒衫起球是假货吗?
羊绒衫起球不一定是假货。起球的羊绒衫质量显得次一些。
九、容易起球的羊绒衫到底是不是真的羊绒成份?
贴点有用的信息:
How to Prevent and Fight Sweater PillingWhether You Favor Cashmere or Cotton, It's Difficult to Predict Whether a Garment Will Pill
By ELIZABETH HOLMES
The Wall Street Journal
Hoping to add some polished knitwear to her wardrobe, Denise Anker spent several hundred dollars last fall on two Vince brand sweaters.
为了给自己衣橱里添置一些平滑光洁的针织衫,德妮丝・安克尔(Denise Anker)在去年秋天花了好几百美元买了两件Vince品牌的毛衣。
One, made entirely of cashmere, has held up well and Ms. Anker wears it regularly. The other, a wool-cashmere blend charcoal-gray cardigan -- and at $395 the more expensive of the two -- has shown troubling signs of a vexing winter wardrobe problem: pilling.
其中一件是纯羊绒质地的,一直保养得很好,安克尔也经常穿它。另一件则为羊毛、羊绒混织的炭灰色开襟衫,售价395美元(折合人民币2,392元),在这两件中也更贵──但它已显露出令人不安的种种迹象:起球──这是冬季衣橱中一个让人恼火的问题。
'After two wearings, it became a ragged mess,' says Ms. Anker, a 55-year-old resident of Big Oak Flat, Calif. Now she wears it only for casual occasions. It's the 'I want to roll around on the floor with my dogs' sweater, she says.
现年55岁、住在加利福尼亚州大橡树平地(Big Oak Flat, Calif.)的安克尔说:“穿了两年之后,它就变得破烂不堪、一团糟了。”现在,安克尔只在休闲场合才穿穿它。她还说,这件衣服成了那种“我想和我的狗在地上打滚儿”时穿的毛衣。
The pesky yarn clumps known as pills can form on garments of all materials and prices, from a high-end cashmere sweater to a bargain-priced acrylic blend. Pilling tends to get worse with more wear, which is why it always seems to occur on your favorite wool turtleneck and not the ones at the back of the closet.
从高档羊绒毛衣到廉价亚克力混纺品,所有材质和各档价位的衣服都会生出令人讨厌的纱团儿──也被称作起球。衣服穿的次数越多,起球就会越厉害,这也就是为什么你最钟爱的羊毛套头衫总是起球,而被扔在衣橱后面的衣服却不会变成这样的原因。
Pills form when yarn fibers in a garment break or become loose, or when the ends are exposed, and then tangle together. Sweaters commonly get pills because of their visible yarn, but nearly any knit or woven garment has the potential, says Sean Cormier, assistant professor at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, who spent almost two decades in quality assurance at the former Liz Claiborne Inc.
纽约时装技术学院(Fashion Institute of Technology in New York)的助理教授肖恩・科米尔(Sean Cormier)说,当一件衣服的纱纤维断了或变得松脱时,或当纤维头端露出于织物的表面时,它们就会互相缠结在一起。毛衣常常会起球,则是因为它们的纱线显露可见,但几乎任何一种针织或机织衣物都有起球的可能性。科米尔还曾在之前的丽诗加邦公司(Liz Claiborne Inc.)质量保证部门工作过近二十多年。
The unfortunate truth is that it's very difficult when looking at a garment in a store to predict whether it will pill. Pilling is what's known as a 'latent defect,' a problem that appears only after the product is in use. 'You don't see it until you wear it,' Mr. Cormier says.
不幸的事实是,当你在商店里打量一件衣服时,很难预测以后它会不会起球。起球一向以“潜在缺陷”而广为人知,这种问题只有当产品在使用时才会显现。科米尔说:“直到你把衣服穿在身上的时候,你才会看到这些毛球。”
Because friction begins or accelerates pilling, garment areas that are prone to rubbing, such as the side of the torso and the inside of the forearms, are likely to pill first, says Cathryn Lee, category manager of apparel care, at the Woolmark Co., which represents Australian wool growers. Men and women who carry shoulder bags will notice pilling on the shoulders. Seat belts may cause pilling across the chest.
羊毛标志公司(Woolmark Co.)是诸多澳大利亚羊毛生产商的代表,该公司服装护理部品类经理凯瑟琳・李(Cathryn Lee)说,这是因为摩擦会导致衣物起球或加速这一过程,衣服上那些容易受到揉擦的部位,比如说上身旁侧及前臂内侧,都可能会最先起球。那些使用肩包的男性和女性还会注意到衣物的双肩上正在起球。而座椅安全带则可能会导致衣物胸前部位起球。
The material used in a particular garment may provide hints as to whether it will pill. Merino wool tends to be strong and when used in a tightly wound sweater would be less likely to pill than fuzzy, fine-gauge cashmere, says Gwen Whiting, co-founder of the Laundress, a New York fabric-care company. But nearly every garment, regardless of make or brand, is a candidate.
一件衣物以后会不会起球,它所使用的材质可能会提供一些线索。纽约织品衣物护理公司Laundress的联合创始人格温・怀廷(Gwen Whiting)说,美利奴羊毛(Merino wool)一般比较结实,当用这种材质来编织一件紧实的毛衣时,与毛茸茸的细针织羊绒衫相比,前者就不太会起球。但几乎每一件衣物,不管它是什么材质、来自哪个品牌,都有可能会起球。
With natural raw materials like cashmere, the length of the fiber is particularly important. Longer fibers can be wound into tighter yarn, making it less likely the ends will come loose, says Karl Spilhaus, president of the Cashmere and Camel Hair Manufacturers Institute.
羊绒与驼绒生产商协会(Cashmere and Camel Hair Manufacturers Institute)会长卡尔・斯皮赫斯(Karl Spilhaus)说,像羊绒这样的天然原材质,纤维的长度就格外重要。长一些的纤维能纺成更紧实的纱线,令其头端更不易松脱。
'Pilling is going to happen with any woven garment but there is a direct link to the length of the yarn thread used,' Thomas Ott, senior vice president for men's apparel at Saks Fifth Avenue, says. 'The longer the thread, the longer it takes to pill.'
萨克斯第五大道精品百货店(Saks Fifth Avenue)男装部高级副总裁托马斯・奥特(Thomas Ott)说:“任何机织服装都会起球,但这与所用纱线的长度有着直接的关系。纱线越长,衣物也能穿更久才起球。”
Today's extremely price-competitive climate is pushing many manufacturers toward shorter, less expensive fibers, Mr. Spilhaus says.
斯皮赫斯说,如今,价格竞争极其激烈,这种风气正促使许多生产商转而使用更短、没那么贵的纤维。
The finish of a garment also affects the likelihood of pilling. A cashmere sweater used to require several home washings before it 'bloomed' -- the industry term for the soft, full feeling of a broken-in sweater.
衣物的最后加工步骤也会影响起球的可能性。过去,一件羊绒毛衣需要买回家洗几次以后才会变得“容光焕发”──行业术语,指一件毛衣上身久了之后变得柔软贴身的感觉。
Retailers and shoppers are looking for sweaters with a 'hand feel' of extreme, immediate softness. Mr. Spilhaus says manufacturers wash garments repeatedly to get the exterior that soft. The washing, along with shorter fibers, brings the ends to the surface more quickly, making pills more likely to happen sooner.
零售商与购物者都在找寻那些“手感”极其柔软、上身之后立马就软贴贴的毛衣。斯皮赫斯说,为了让衣物外观变得那样柔软,生产商们都在反复清洗衣物。如此这般的清洗,再加上使用越来越短的纤维,这些因素致使纤维头端更快地露出于织物表面,也使衣物更易快速起球。
Retailers, regardless of price point, say they take steps to prevent pilling. Uniqlo, which sells moderately priced sportswear, says it uses a pill-reducing treatment on its worsted merino-wool sweaters. Luxury knitwear maker Brunello Cucinelli sends employees along with importers to meet with Mongolian shepherds when selecting cashmere for its annual production.
撇开价格点不谈,零售商说,他们正在采取措施、以防衣物起球。出售中档价位运动装的优衣库(Uniqlo)称,它在自家精纺的美利奴羊毛毛衣上就用了一种去毛球法。而一到了为每年生产商品采集羊绒时,奢华针织品制造商布鲁奈罗・库奇内利 (Brunello Cucinelli)就会将员工与进口商一道派去会见蒙古牧羊人。
Some retailers require suppliers to test sweaters for pilling, says FIT's Mr. Cormier. Certain stores require use of the Martindale Pilling Tester, a large, two-tiered oscillating machine that rubs two swatches of the same material against each another in circular and linear motions. Another option, often used for sturdier fabrics such as upholstery, is the Random Tumble Pilling Tester, a blender-like machine with prongs that rapidly spin three swatches in a cork-lined cylinder.
纽约时装技术学院的科米尔说,一些零售商要求供应商对毛衣进行检测,看看是否起球。某些商店要求使用马丁代尔耐磨仪(Martindale Pilling Tester),这是一种巨大的、两层振摆式机器,它让同一材质的两片样板布以环形和线性运动方式进行相互摩擦。另一个选择是随机翻滚式毛球测试仪(Random Tumble Pilling Tester),这是一种带有尖叉、类似搅拌机的仪器,常用来检测厚实的面料,如家居装饰织物。该机器能让三块样板布在一个带软木塞盖儿的圆筒内快速旋转。
After testing, the samples are held at a 45-degree angle and compared under specified lighting with pilling images, and they are graded on a scale of 1 (total pilling) to 5 (no pilling whatsoever). Most retailers require a 4, which Mr. Cormier describes as 'some pill balls beginning to form.'
检测以后,人们会将这些样品以45度角的姿势举起并在特定的光线下对这些起球的图像进行比较,而且还要给它们评分:从一分(完全起球)到五分(无论怎样都不会起球)。大多数零售商要求衣物须获得四分,科米尔将这种情况称为“有一些毛球开始形成。”
Once you buy the sweater, what can you do to prevent pilling? One option is to wear it sparingly -- because the more a garment is worn, the more likely it is to pill, says Lorraine Muir, director of textile testing at the Drycleaning & Laundry Institute. The Woolmark Co. suggests letting clothing 'rest' at least 24 hours before wearing again so the fibers recover from stretching during use.
一旦你买了毛衣,要怎样做才能防止起球呢?干洗和水洗协会(Drycleaning & Laundry Institute)纺织品测试主管洛兰・缪尔(Lorraine Muir)说,其中一个选择就是少穿、穿它的时候要爱惜点儿──因为一件衣服你穿得越多,它就越容易起球。羊毛标志公司建议,让衣物在下次被穿之前至少“休息”上24小时,这样的话,纤维才能从穿戴过程的拉伸状态中恢复过来。
Gale Senseny, sales manager of Sweater Stone Inc., makers of a pill-removing device in Issaquah, Wash., has a once-a-year trick to help prevent pilling on the sweaters that fill her wardrobe. She conditions them with lanolin, an oil that comes from sheep and is removed in the fiber-cleansing process. Ms. Senseny breaks down a small bit of lanolin in a dish of hot water and then fills a sink with tepid water. She pours the lanolin in, followed by a just-washed sweater. She rinses the garment and lays it out on a towel to dry.
毛衣石公司(Sweater Stone Inc.)是一家位于华盛顿州伊萨夸市(Issaquah, Wash.)的去除毛球设备生产商,该公司销售经理盖尔・森丝尼(Gale Senseny)每年都会用一个小诀窍来防止自己衣橱里的毛衣起球。她会用羊毛脂来修复保养毛衣,羊毛脂是羊身上分泌出来的一种油脂,在纤维清洗过程中被去除。森丝尼先将一小块羊毛脂放入一盘热水中进行分解,接着用温水将水槽填满。她把羊毛脂水倒进去,再将一件刚刚洗 的毛衣也扔进去。对衣物进行清洗后,她会将毛衣展开平铺在一条毛巾上晾干。
The process helps smooth the scales on the yarn's fiber, making them less rough and less likely to tangle with one another to form a pill. 'It's just like putting conditioner in your hair,' Ms. Senseny says.
这个过程有助于抚平纱线的纤维上鱼鳞状的次节,使它们变得没那么粗糙,也更不易彼此缠绕从而形成毛球。森丝尼说:“这就像把护发素涂抹在你的头发上。”
To remove pills, Ms. Senseny, not surprisingly, uses her company's Sweater Stone. The pumice stone resembles a bar of soap. When glided over a garment it removes the pills, but it won't alter what Ms. Senseny calls the sweater's 'halo' or 'unique surface.' An electronic pill remover, she says, can damage the halo of mohair and cashmere. 'It's like shaving a beard,' she says.
情理之中的是,为了去除毛球,森丝妮还使用了自己公司的毛衣石。这种浮石就像一块肥皂。当其滑过衣物表面时,就会带走毛球,但又不会改变被森丝妮称为毛衣“光晕”或“独特表面”的特质。她称,电动毛球修剪器会毁了马海毛织物和羊绒衫的光泽。她说:“那就跟刮胡子一样。”
There are comb-like tools for removing pills, such as the palm-sized D-Fuzz-It Sweater and Fabric Comb. The Gleener has three different edges -- for big, bulky clumps, for medium-size fuzz balls and for delicate pills. President Kim Cole developed it with new synthetic fibers in mind. 'They are inherently strong, so the pilling is actually strong' and harder to remove, she said.
还有一些梳子形状的去毛球工具,比如说手掌大小的D-Fuzz-It毛衣与纤维梳子(D-Fuzz-It Sweater and Fabric Comb)。而Gleener则有三个不同的刀口──专门针对那些大块厚重的纱团、中等大小的毛球还有微小的毛粒。在研发这款产品时,总裁金姆・科尔(Kim Cole)考虑到了新出的合成纤维类衣物。她说:“它们本来就厚实,所以生出的毛球真的也很强固”,而且更难去除。
The Internet is littered with do-it-yourself ways to remove pills that involve disposable razors or sandpaper. The Laundress's Ms. Whiting doesn't recommend any of these because of the potential for further damage, including snagging, harming the yarn or making a hole.
网络上到处都充斥着自己动手用一次性剃须刀或砂纸去除毛球的方法。Laundress的联合创始人怀廷却不推荐其中的任何一种方法,因为它们可能会进一步损毁衣物,包括使衣服剐破抽丝,伤损纱线或是弄出一个洞。
For anyone tempted to pull pills off with your fingers, Ms. Whiting says don't. 'You are yanking the yarn it is attached to,' she says. 'You could end up making it worse.'
对于那些试着用手指揪拽毛球的人,怀汀建议不要这样做。“你那是在使劲拉扯毛球依附的纱线,”她说:“你可能会把毛衣毁得更厉害。”
十、100%的山羊绒衫起球吗?
所谓纯羊绒指山羊绒含量超过95%的羊绒,但里面也会含有少量杂质或羊毛,羊绒因纤细轻薄保暖透气性好深受广大顾客喜爱,但并不是羊绒的高档的织物就不起球,众所周知,羊绒织物是由羊绒纱线经编织而成,而羊绒纱线是由一根根的羊绒纤维经加捻上色而来,纤维有长有短,因此加捻在一起的时候就会有少量纤维半露或附着在纤维上,当织物经过洗涤甩干烘躺之后,就会有更多的纤维暴露出来,这样做的目的是为了追求柔软的手感,加之穿着过程中摩擦产生静电,一些细小的纤维就在缠绕交合在一起,久之就形成了毛球,但羊绒的另一好处就是羊绒球去除之后会越来越少,这与羊绒的纤细柔韧是由很大关系的
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